10 Things I Hate (and Love) About You

I have been living in Korea for 7 months. By now, I feel comfortable and well adjusted. Though far from achieving "local" status, I think I have been able to obtain a pretty clear picture of the assets and liabilities of Korean life, culture and society. I've been mulling it over in my mind quite a bit the last few weeks, so I have decided to record my top ten favorite and least favorite things about Korea to date. Here they are:

Likes: (I'll start with the positive, because I fancy myself an optimist.)

1. The Public Transportation System- It is incredibly efficient and affordable. Between buses, subways and the KTX bullet train, many people live car free here and are perfectly mobile. It's fantastic.

2. Cooking at your table-There are several styles of restaurant dining here that involve grilling, boiling and barbequing your food right at the table. It is a really fun, hands-on group dining experience.

3. Fall leaves- The colors are simply stunning.

4. Promptness- Often times, if you need something fixed/installed/etc. it can be achieved either that day or the next. When I signed up for my internet at 8:45pm, the sales representative apologized that they would be unable to install it that night. I suppressed a giggle as I assured him that next-day installation would be perfectly alright.

5. Cozy Tights- They look sleek on the outside, but are warm and fuzzy on the inside. SO comfortable!

6. The Kids- Just so adorable.

7. Jimjil bangs- Public bathhouse/Spas where one can soak in hot tubs, get a massage, sit in a sauna, take a nap, watch TV and so much more for the equivalent of 5 USD. I don't know what I will do without them when I get home.

8. Environmental Conscience- Koreans are very adamant and meticulous about recycling.

9. Respect for Elders- As a result of their Confucius heritage, Koreans place a lot of importance on filial piety and deference to the older generations. I think it's really nice (within reason).

10. The Welcome- In general, Koreans really want foreigners to enjoy their country. They will go out of their way to make sure you feel comfortable, don't get lost and never feel hungry. Without their generosity, my time here would have been a far less pleasant experience.


Dislikes:

1. Winter- It is just so bitterly cold. Sometimes there is no way to feel warm no matter what you are wearing.

2. Lack of veggies- There is not a large variety of produce available here, especially vegetables. One of the first things I realized in Thailand was how much I had missed fresh salads and the like.

3. Lack of conversation about current events- I don't know if they are oblivious or just unwilling to talk about potentially unpleasant things. But, none of my co-teachers approached me about either the shelling by North Korea or the Earthquake/Tsunami in Japan. Perhaps they discuss these things amongst themselves, I don't know. But the apparent lack of conversation strikes me as odd and a bit eerie.

4. Collective Mentality- While I admire some facets of the Confucian philosophy, the herd mentality it creates in some Koreans is a bit annoying. The homogeny here is practically a law.

5. K-pop Music- It is repetitive and obnoxious (I acknowledge that Western Pop is too, but I find it easier to escape).

6. Bleak color pallet- Especially in the winter when all the plants are dormant, Korean cities look rather bleak. There is not much variety in the concrete architecture and, without many evergreen trees to break up the gray, it begins to wear at your soul.

7. Residual Chauvinism- Korea is still a very patriarchal society. I have had some harrowing reports from my co-teachers about their marriages. And it is a well-known fact that Korean men are rarely faithful. In fact, it is not uncommon for business meetings to be conducted in whorehouses. I am so glad that I was born an American girl.

8. Overall Inefficiency- Korea was recently ranked the hardest working but least efficient country in the industrialized world. This is evident in Public School system in many ways and it can be quite frustrating sometimes.

9. Crazy Drivers- They're just terrible. I've witnessed more accidents here in 7 months than I had previously in my whole life.

10. Mispronunciation- Many Koreans add an "E" sound at the end of English(ey) words where it does not exist. This is the month of "Marchey". After dinner, I "washey" the dishes. No, no, NO!!!

So, there is my rant and rave about Korea. Because of all these things, I'm having one of the most memorable years of my young existence.

Open Lesson, OH MY!

     Any new Native English Teacher in Korea quickly learns to anticipate and dread the term, "Open Lesson." This means one must prepare the swankiest lesson one can imagine that incorporates all the available technology in the English classroom. Mind you, this technology is extensive. The Korean government recently dropped billions of Won updating English classrooms around the country with touch screen blackboards, sound systems, document cameras, microphones, the whole nine yards. It's incredible. But when asked to show it all off, it's intimidating. Some teachers avoid this blight, but for most it is inevitable.

     My lotto number was called in October and November 11th, after several weeks of preparation, we gave our lesson in front of teachers from nearby schools, the principle, vice principle and other people from the Metropolitan Office of Education. I'll spare you the description of the last few weeks of planning, revisions, cutting, laminating, dry runs, critiques from our consultant (yes, the MOE sent in a consultant) and skip to the big day. 

My Classroom and Co-teacher, Mrs. Park



      In the morning, my co-teacher and I ran through the whole lesson together one last time to rehearse our parts. All our materials were set up, the powerpoint files were open and ready, the CDrom was in the drive. Ok. What now? 10 people descended on our classroom bringing a few dozen folding chairs, a banner, a carved podium inlaid with mother of pearl, a velvetine flag and several potted plants. Pimp my classroom? Yes, please. Out in the hall, a table was covered with a real table cloth and spread out with 5 different kinds of cookies, tangerines, tea and coffee. Then more people arrived with wads of rainbow ribbons, which they festuned between two posts in front of the main door of the classroom. I couldn't believe the amount of swag. But I had been forewarned: Koreans love to put on a show.

Ribbon Cutting



The Suits. Not intimidating at all, right?



     Around 1:30pm people started making their way into the classroom. This was the time to schmooze and mingle: easier said than done with the language barrier. When in doubt, smile and bow. I did a LOT of smiling and bowing. After a ribbon cutting ceremony, everyone took a seat and the Principle gave a speech. Then two more men in suits gave speeches, I didn't understand a word. Smile and bow. Then the children marched into the room in a perfect, single file line, sat and bowed. Yeah right, you little fakers. I surpressed an eye roll.







  The lesson went off without a hitch. The children answered questions perfectly and followed directions to a T. Afterward, my co-teacher and I sat down with the other teachers and the MOE officials and received feedback about our lesson. They had only good things to say about it to my ENORMOUS relief.

I wouldn't call the experience "fun", but it certainly was memorable and, in the end, positive. The attention to detail and the effort that went into this elaborate production was a sharp contrast to the American public education system. This country really does think education is of the utmost importance and it shows. I might not agree with all of their methods, but I respect their attitude and think our country could learn something from them.

Thinglish: Reflections on Thailand

I haven't posted on this blog for a few months now and I'm feeling a little bit rusty. Ergo, I decided to write this post in an itemized format so I could make brief comments on some of my scattered thoughts concerning Thailand.

Getting Religion- We visited several Buddhist temples in Bangkok. These places of worship are so vibrant yet posess a serenity that even hordes of tourists can't quite shake. Their traditions and rituals seem to have a richness to them that most Western religions lack. Not to mention, they built a 7 story tall Buddha. Honestly, it left me feelling a little bit envious.

Bathrooms- My perception of what constitutes a "nice bathroom" has drastically changed since leaving the US. I once fancied myself an amateur bathroom critic. Decor, ambiance and environment enhancers such as candles, potpuri, etc. used to factor into my ratings. Sometimes I would actually go to the bathrooms of nice restaurants, hotels, theaters and department stores just to evaluate their aesthetics. Now, if a bathroom has toilet paper and hand soap it earns a full 5 stars from me. Two thumbs up. From there it is all down hill. In Thailand most of the toilets didn't flush, they were accompanied by a bucket of water with some sort of bowl or ladel next to them. When you finished your business, you dumped water into the toilet. Archaic but effective. At one rest stop somewhere in Cambodia I came upon a toilet completely covered in flies. Lovely. In yet another Bankok bathroom I discovered a used condom on the floor. I miss the Downtown Macy's 3rd floor ladies lounge. But these experiences have been character building... and my travel sized bottle of Purelle is one of my new best friends.

Is this Cancun or Thailand?- Thailand has exploded in the last few years as one of the world's top tourist destinations.Resorts, restaurants, souvenire stalls and bars slinging kitchy drinks have sprouted like dandylions. As a result, parts of Bangkok and many of the islands have that "MTV Spring Break" feel. We couldn't count the number of people wandering around with fake dreadlocks, tiedye t-shirts and harem pants. Who do they think they're fooling? By trying to look free-spirited and hippie-esque they wind up looking more common and ridiculous than droves of Valley Girls in Ugg boots and mini-skirts.This is not to say that Thailand isn't enjoyable. It is. The food is fantastic and many of the people are incredibly nice. The authentic culture is there beneath the glossy surface. I just hope that the Thai people get fed up and revive it sooner or later.

Scorpions- I don't recommend eating them. Just a friendly piece of advice.

A glimpse into the South Korean education system:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpS2JJYfbZ8